Zavodovski Expedition. Ice on the radar

Once we entered the SGSSI Maritime Zone the wind increased and we spotted the first iceberg. We had a solid gale from the West all the way into Larson Harbour on the South-East corner of South Georgia. As we got closer the iceberg density increased and our ice were glued on the horizon and water in front of us. Not only looking out for the big icebergs, but also and maybe more importantly for smaller growlers and chunks of ice.

Once nighttime fell we switched on the radar to detect bigger bergs and the ice light on the bow to spot smaller bits in time to alter course and avoid impact. The whole watch start intensity into the darkness with the ice light illuminating the waves and the white foam on top of the crests. Every time we detected an iceberg on radar we tried to sail to windward of it, as the smaller bit that would have broken off it would drift to leeward. With this tactic and a proper look-out we managed to get through the minefield of ice and reached Larsen Harbour unscaled.

But before we got into the shelter of Larson Harbour we had to turn the corner and enter Drygalski Fjord. Here the winds flow over the glacier and funnel through the fjord with sudden gusts into the high 40ies. Another sharp turn to port and we were in the shelter of Larson harbour, the wind a mere 15 knots. We dropped the foresail, plugged in the anchor and continued our way into the fjord to drop anchor in 9m of depth and an almost calm. Here we stayed for the night before we would continue 60nm further up the coast to Grytviken, the old whaling station and now an open air museum and post office.

Justino, Mariana, Tor and myself got up at midnight, but it was still blowing hard outside in the Drygalski fjord and it was still pitch black. So we had a cup of coffee and breakfast to wait for the sunrise. At 0200 it was light enough to see the water and we raised the anchor, hoisted the foresail to 4th reef and made our way out of the shelter of Larson harbour. The wind had eased right off and it was a stunning morning with icebergs, snow capped mountains and a flat sea all dipped in an orange pink light. We slalomed our way through a field of icebergs and snuck in-between Cooper island and South Georgia. Tor and I shared the first watch until we were past Royal Bay and then handed over to Justino and Mariana for the rest of the journey up to the entrance to Cumberland Bay.

Here we had all hands on deck to drop the foresail, get the lines and fenders out and re-inflate them to be ready to tie up alongside KEP (King Edward Point) - the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) base. The guys from BAS were ready to catch our lines and shortly after we were tied up alongside.

Fair winds and a following sea,

Chris Kobush

Skipper