Joubin Islands. Uncharted territory

Some days ago, I understood what Skip once mentioned; “there is still pioneering territory in the polar regions”. That is what we felt heading towards the Joubin Archipelago, neighbouring the Anvers Island southwestern tip.

Dron pics: Gemma Clucas

We are supporting a science expedition. The ornithologists and penguinologists we host, have given us a number of spots where they want to go. They collect samples and data from a sort of penguin species, for their studies. Frequently, these spots are classic Antarctica sites, well chartered and documented, with a bunch of guidelines about how to land, what to do and don’t. But there were these couple of places on their list: the Joubin and the Rosenthal Islands. Both, way off the common track.

Onboard we carry navigation software where you can see the tracks where other boats have previously passed. Actually, Alec, our expedition leader, has for years opened several of these routes. But there are no marked tracks in the archipelagos on the western side of Anvers Island.

This is how out of a sudden we were in exploring territory. Sailing blind, looking for anchorages and passages through unchartered waters. Using the graphic depth sounder to help us see the rise or the fall of the sea bottom. Following, sometimes our imagination, guessing what we had underneath the keel by observing the shape of its nearest land. Some other times, when the sea bed would rise very rapidly, listening to what the gut tells you, stop the boat instantly and turn to port, or to starboard…?

We spent a day in the Joubin Islands and in the evening we sailed towards the Rosenthal Archipelago. Through a very rocky bottom we found a not-so-bad anchorage between an islet and an astonishing glacier. The scientists worked there the whole next day.

Adventure and risk are very subjective, that spirit depends on each individual’s feelings. What is exploration and venture for me, can be not pleasing for some persons, or even boring and routine for some other ones.

But what is entirely detached from this perception, are beauty, wilderness, peace. The finest of being so off the track, is to eyewitness the pureness, the harmony of Nature at its highest. These are like very clandestine and secret places. In our complete absence, penguins, seals, fish, whales, petrels and other beings still seem to live together a balanced and well-adjusted life.

Kenneth Perdigón.

Skipper