Shackleton Traverse 22’. Lots of latitude at a high latitude.

There are many extraordinary things about this venture which speak for themselves. The location of the remote South Georgia island in Antarctica, the generally shocking weather – high winds, rain and snow, the 100’S of glaciers and unclimbed peaks everywhere, snow down to the sea; and the rather mad trip managers who think they can sail a boat into a bay, chuck everyone off in a rubber dinghy on a choppy beach, and tell them, “boat pick up is 6 days later, 50 kms away, the other side of the Island”.

Joke Cove, in Elsehul Bay.

If this isn’t beyond alarming, add in the average age of the leaders and a few of the punters – no names no pack drill, but my tent of 3 came to 203 years in total (and I was the boy). All of us expected to pull 40kg pulks up to 3,500’ cols on skins, camping at over 3,000’ on glacier ice at -10 deg C. You wonder where this is going to end.

The reality was an extraordinary experience and one not without it’s unscheduled adventures. But what made it all the more special and remarkable for me was the leadership from Skip and Stephen. If you need to be evacuated from here, then you are going back in the bold ship Vinson of Antarctica, whatever your injuries, as there is no other way and it’s 4 days sailing to the Falklands. So when you are sliding down a 35 degree slope, skis flailing, having fallen over and the 40kg pulk is pulling you ever faster to the bottom, it concentrates the mind to finding your ice axe a bit sharpish and get it planted  into the ice to stop the descent.

Despite the risks and uncertainties, our leaders left us on a long leash, to learn the hard way, do our own thing, take our own line and just get there without whingeing. In the modern world of risk assessments, ‘elf’ and safety; their can-do attitude was a breath of fresh air. Nevertheless,  embedded within these giants of S Georgia exploration and mountaineering, always present was a very healthy respect for the weather, the mountains, the sea and the art of the possible. It is rare indeed to find such care and attention to achieving the aim without mishap whilst being prepared to go for it. I have never seen it done better. True purists to adventure and the ultimate amphibious ski trip.

You don’t find outings like this at your exclusive high class travel agents. Thrilling, unique, physical and highly recommended but not for the feint hearted.

Pictures by James Gibson Fleming

James Gibson Fleming