South Georgia Wandering Albatross Survey (II)

Willwaws coming down the Konig Glacier into Fortuna Bay

The last landing of the day at Cooper Bay at the southern end of the north east coast was a windy undertaking.  It was blowing right out of the bay, a steady 30 knots, gusting 40 and Dion, who knows every single beach, rocky landing and the rest when asked what he thought about having a go said “It should be alright, between williwaws.”

Narrow passage between Saddle Island and Cape Demidov

We are slowly making a clockwise tour of South Georgia, having hit all but one of the albatross nesting sites on the south coast at the north end, including a landing at the celebrated Cave Cove on Cape Rosa where Shackleton’s James Caird first landed after his boat journey from Elephant Island in 1916.  We then went around the top and did the Bay of Isles sites of which there are several, followed by site survey stops at Blue Whale Harbour and Fortuna Bay with a brief stop at King Edward Point/Grytviken to make our formal entry in to the island.  Now, we are poised to round Cape Disappointment (Captain Cook’s disappointment in 1775, not ours) tomorrow and hit the three remaining albatross nesting sites at the far south end before returning to the Samuel Islands (the missing one) up north to complete the list. 

Landing on Saddle Island

Some of the landings have been more ‘sporty’ than others, not beaches but on slippery rocks in heave and surge. The technique is to drive the Zodiac’s bow hard on and up on a slope, and keep it in gear, taking note that if the bottom drops out and bow gets stuck, it’s a possible dunking. It’s all about reading the water, having an eye over your shoulder and knowing what is possible and what is not - one of Dion’s many talents par excellence.  The other is butchery and he is charge of dispatching and cooking our four half mutton carcasses that are hanging off the gantry, properly sea salted.

Dion preparing dinner

We are still flat out, up at 0530, coffee on, (no time for pancakes and bacon, sadly . . . ) up anchor by 0600, morning briefing and off to the next landing. In addition to our wandering albatross survey sites, at every overnight anchorage or short stop the team is assessing the avian flu situation by looking at mortality events and taking biological samples from birds and seals, for later analysis that has to be carried out in the UK. These observations by experts inform the government to help them decide if sites should be re-opened or remain closed for the cruise visitors.

Briefing on the beach at Whistle Cove, Fortuna Bay

Dismantling and removal of the GPS recorder installed by the US National Science Foundation in 2014 to measure plate tectonics on Annenkov Island.

In addition, Kelvin, our botanical expert roams above the beaches taking note of native and non-native plant species.  He, Jen Black and others developed a three-tiered approach to alien plant species; eradicate, control and let go, and have written the Field Guide to the `Introduced Flora of South Georgia, which is a give-away to all visiting ships to South Georgia, to further educate visitors and enhance the island’s biosecurity.

Andy and Ken at Saddle Island

We have 12 days to run before we need to start looking at a weather window for the return to Stanley which might sound like there is fat in the schedule, but with the vagaries of South Georgia weather where it is nigh on impossible to guarantee a landing with unpredictable and often violent katabatic winds in an otherwise benign forecast, or swell out of nowhere,  it is never a given you can get ashore. According to Sally, the team has censused 18 sites so far and we have 12 to go. Another visit to Annenkov Island, but with clear weather, drone flying is also still on the cards.

Sally conducting a team briefing for landing

For the final numbers on how the wandering albatross population has fared since the last count ten years ago, watch this space.

Skip Novak

Co-Expedition Leader