Shackleton traverse 22’. Sail off the whalers dock.

The rumor reached me in the main salon enjoying a breakfast of Skip’s homemade bread produced late last evening whilst consuming a bottle of Shackleton scotch whiskey. Sebastian came down the companionway and beamed, “we’re going to sail off the dock”.  

Although conditions were ideal for pulling it off – light wind off the port bow, docked port side to – it seemed unlikely to me. Mariana, the Mate and Sailing master, enjoying a brief moment, with the guests, said she hadn’t heard any such from Kenneth the Skipper, and was dubious as well.

Grytviken Harbor was the perfect and very convenient place to regroup after successfully pulling off our planned traverse across the island in honor and memory of the great Ernest Shackleton.  It is one of the very few reasonably sheltered bays on this unforgiving island, the site of the first and now long abandoned whaling station and of the present-day British Antarctic Survey base at King Edward Point.

We had been tied up to the remnants of the whaling station jetty, drying skis, pulks and other gear and enjoying the only security and flexibility we would have on this trip that a shore-tie offers, but it was time to move on to Saint Andrews Bay, home of one of the largest colonies of King Penguins in the world. 

Grytviken Harbor

I was savoring the coffee and toast when Skip called down from the hatch – “ roust out, we need some hands up here sorting out the docklines. ” I made my way forward to put on some warmer clothes and then on deck.

The rumor was true – Skip was standing on the pilot house, in his woolen sweater and muck boots, above the fray, directing the guests in preparing to set the main and mizzen and ultimately to back the staysail to pull us away from the decrepit jetty. The crew, now of course alerted as well, removed most of the 9 (yes that’s right, nine) dock lines we had set out on arrival , anticipating another big South Georgia blow.

We set the bow and stern lines doubled back to slip when ready, and the boat was mildly straining on the stern spring as the main and mizzen set, still ideal conditions for the exercise, although in South Georgia things can and do change in a heartbeat.

Then Skip gave the order to remove the spring lines, and then slip the bow and stern. The backed staysail peeled us away from the dock as planned, we were off, bringing the staysail around to starboard and setting the big jib, parading out of the harbor, albeit with little wind and in slow motion, nevertheless a satisfying moment, smiles all around. 

Clearly on a roll, up went Skip on the foremast steps to the first spreaders for a bit of fun, better view and some inspection while at it.  Seizing the moment to work the fully alert and mobilized guests, and crew, and to make a point, he called down, “Let’s strike the big jib and set the working jib so we’ve tested the entire sail plan.  It’s amazing what  sometimes doesn’t work after a bit of a lull, and only to find out in a gale”

Pictures by Kenneth Perdigón

Chuck Gates